Shining up Shanghai

The thunder of the fireworks practice for EXPO in Shanghai has just abated.  I am sitting overlooking the Bund contemplating a hectic day. I have always run to the Bund (or riverbank) as soon as I hit Shanghai.  Maybe it is because it is one of the few places in urban China where you can still feel the wind in your hair. Maybe its because of the multifarious passers by that remind you of the complexity of the city.  Maybe it is because this is where I called my Dad four years ago to debate the benefits of living in Beijing or Shanghai.  He told me openly (and as it transpired accurately) that “if you want money stay in Shanghai, but if you want real China go to Beijing.”  Shanghai, or the ‘Paris of the East’ may not be ‘real China’ but it is the best of everything Asia has to offer (at a price).  If you have money anything is possible.  If you are poor you will spend your time looking up and no-one will smile back.  The nightclubs make London look like a backwater.  The height of the buildings belittle New York.  The fashion conscience residents make Parisians look parochial.Today I looked at Shanghai from the bottom up and top down.  In the morning I ran along the river.  It was early and I was surprised to see two young tourist guys out and about.  However, I soon suspected they were police on ‘beggar control’.  I have run on this path for the past decade and for the first time I met no homeless people.  I saw the weeds being sprayed in the herbaceous borders and I wondered what other undesirables had been uprooted in the rush to ready the city for the Expo influx.  Certainly it is simpler to run without having to be vigilant, but somehow I think that every city should embrace diversity – the Expo slogan – ‘better city, better life’ – should be for everyone.  London has homeless people too; but they sell newspapers etc., are given shelters by NGO’s and will doubtless be around for the 2012 Olympics.   Back to my bedroom I spotted two ropes dangling past my hotel window.  Even the windows were being given a final rub down in anticipation of EXPO…by a guy on a piece of metal supported by two ropes.  I took a picture but did not request a smile as I may have been asking for his life.  Life in Shanghai is often precarious but the city is precious.  Precious for the pot-pourri of attitudes it encapsulates; the opportunities it presents; the diversity of perspectives, professions and nationalities it provided in my afternoon meeting. We held the first meeting of Shanghai Ethics Network (SEN) in offices in Pudong; a meeting of ethics professionals who share and learn from each others experiences to improve the ethical operation of their companies in China.  Before the meeting we sign a non-disclosure disagreement.  Today the topic was “Are foreigners still welcome in China post Rio ruling?”; Rio is a case where an Australian Chinese was sent to prison for stealing ’state secrets’.  A number of companies met and I admired the spirit of the outspoken Chinese and foreign lawyers who have to apply the lessons of these rulings in their daily lives in complex multicultural company environments with conflicting pressures from home and local offices.  Much of the frankest debate takes place after the official proceedings are over.  It is good for people to get out of the silo hot-house of their own firms.  We discussed which UK election candidate was most pro-China and how to engender a culture of philanthropy in companies in China; how do we make sustainable philanthropy a part of the millionaire must-have list which to date only includes a villa in Hainan, three cars from Germany and girlfriends from every province.  Foundation and Ferrari are still uncomfortable bedfellows in Shanghai, but judging by the strength of feeling expressed at SEN in favor of more compassionate capitalism I do not think that this will be the case forever.  Tomorrow when I open the curtains maybe the life of the workers making ready for EXPO won’t be dangling by a thread.

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